PRUETT JOE, Author at Pruett Woodworking

POLISHING COMPOUNDS

COMPOUND CATEGORIES

There are three primary categories of polishing compounds:

Cutting compounds known as Tripolis. High cuts remove more than lower cuts. These compounds eliminate dull scratches and emery marks to deliver a smooth, dull, surface.
Intermediates, which cut away rough surfaces and provides a degree of luster.
Finishing rouges, which are burnishing compounds used to deliver a high-quality polish.

Polishing compounds come in many forms, with surfaces that range from extra coarse to extra-fine. Depending on the application and how much smoothing needs to be done, different compounds can be used during the process to achieve the desired results.

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COMMONLY-USED POLISHING COMPOUNDS

I have compiled a list of commonly-used polishing compounds along with their recommended applications below. The most common compound used in woodworking is green but white works very well also.

GREEN

This intermediate metal polishing compound is mainly used to finish stainless steel surfaces, which is why it is often referred to as the stainless steel compound. It removes scratches and provides a mirror-like finish.

WHITE

Used primarily on hard metals and stainless steel, white polishing compounds have a finer composition that make it ideal for the cutting and intermediate stages of the polishing process.

BLACK

The black polishing compound is used in smaller doses to add shine to aluminum, steel, copper, brass, and similar metals. The black emery compound in particular is recommended if you need to remove deep scratches or smooth rough surfaces.

BROWN

The brown polishing compound is highly versatile and commonly used to polish surfaces on softer metals like brass, copper, and aluminum. It can even be applied to wood surfaces, resulting in a lustrous finish.

YELLOW

These dry, low-residue polishing compounds deliver a brilliant shine on hard metals like gold and platinum, which is why this particular compound is popular in the jewelry industry.

PINK

This dual-purpose compound is applied in the first stage of soft metal polishing and in the final stage of hard metal polishing to add a finishing touch. It is one of the most versatile compounds, as it can also be used on wood, painted surfaces, and plastic.

The Building of My Shaker Workbench

My Shaker style workbench. After working for many years on sawhorses and makeshift tables I decided it was time to build a bench that fits my style of work. One that allowed good work holding and was suited for power tool use but was solid enough for hand tools use when needed. Plans for the bench are available here

The Shaker Workbench — The Shaker style workbench

Time to get started.

To get this build started I milled up enough cherry stock to make the legs and upper and lower rails. The legs are 2 in. x 2 in. and 33 inches tall. The upper rails are 2 inch x 3 inch while the lowers are 2 inch x 4 inch. The front and rear rails are 56 inches long and the side rails are 20 inches long.

Rear and end panels.

I also made the center supports for the front, back and end panels at the same time. While those were drying, I used my bandsaw to resaw some 1 inch thick cherry stock, and this allowed me to book matched the panels. The rear and side rails along with the legs received groves to accept the floating panels.

Starting assembly.

I used the Festool Domino for joinery but traditional mortise and tenon is another option. I assembled the rear panel and end panels and let them dry. The next morning, I assembled the two side panels and the rear panel. Now its time for the front assembly.

The front assembly.

I built the front assembly and the two center supports. The two center supports give me places for the drawer slides. Another result from this is that they transfer any forces from the top directly to the floor. This design has 12 points to transfer any forces from the top to the floor making it very solid.

Interior assembly.

The next step was to install 7 pair of drawer slides and build drawer boxes to fit. The plans have 4 shallow drawers (two in each cabinet) but I decided that I was going to use two one the left and one on the right. The extra drawer on the right can be added at a later time if I need it..

Let’s build the doors.

Now I am so close to complete. Time for the doors. These are standard floating panel doors. The panels are book matched and are set in grooves cut in the rails and stiles. I must say they look great. I added mission style hardware to finish off the main assembly of the bench.

At last the top!

The last thing to build was the top. I used white oak for my top. I made the top by laminating 28 strips of oak to reach my desired dimension. My final dimensions for the top are 28×72 and 2.75 thick. I finished the bench with three coats of a wipe on poly. The top has two coats, just enough to keep glue from soaking into the top while I am doing a build.

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Beautiful Pedestal desk with drawers.

Pedestal desk, the Beginning.

The need for a pedestal desk with drawers came from the COVID-19 pandemic. After working from home for a few months my customer asked me if I could build her a “real” desk. So, I sat down and drew up the plans (available here). She loved it and the build began.

Picking out the stock for the desk.

pulling out the needed lumber for the pedestal desk.

The first step was digging through the lumber pile and pulling out the cherry and poplar needed for the build. I started with 85 board feet of rough sawn cherry and 50 board feet of poplar to use for the drawers and other internal parts.

Making the Legs.

The material for the legs was the first job. I cut strips and laminated them together so I could mill the legs down to a 2×2 size. Then for looks I added an angle to the bottoms of each leg. Then I cut the groves for the panels to fit into each leg.

Cutting the rails and stiles.

After the legs were complete, the rails and stiles for the sides and back of the pedestals were cut to size. I then cut a 1/4″ wide by 1/2″ deep grove for the floating panels to sit.

The floating panels.

The floating panels were made by taking thick stock and resawing it into thinner parts. This does two things for me. First it allows the material to go farther. Second it gives the panels a mirrored look when glued together. This will make the Pedestal desk different from others.

Time to assemble the pedestal panels

I assembled the side and back panels for the pedestals next. The floating panels are slide into the groves that were cut in the rails and stiles. These panels are allowed to float so they can expand and contract with changes in humidity.

Desk drawer slides and the internals.

Installing drawer slides and the internals in the pedestal desk

Once the panels were dry, it was time to add the legs. At this point the pedestal desk was showing its beauty. The internal structure and the drawer slides were added to finish of this step of the process.

Drawers and a top!

My next job was making the drawer boxes and the top. The boxes were made out of poplar with cherry fronts installed. The top is 1 1/4 thick and is 72 inches long and 30 inches wide. This thing is heavy!

Finishing the Pedestal desk with drawers.

Once the hard work was completed, the desk was finished with General Finishes water based dye stain. It is top coated with a satin water based poly to give it just a little shine.

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