hand crafted furniture Archives - Pruett Woodworking

Are Hand Cut DoveTails Worth The Effort?

Introduction

Dovetail joints have been used for centuries to join pieces of wood together. Their popularity is due to their strength and durability. They are also very attractive, which is why they are often used in fine furniture.

There are two ways to cut dovetail joints – by hand or by machine. Many woodworkers believe that hand-cut dovetail joints are superior to those cut by machine. While they may take longer to create, the results are worth the effort.

Keep reading to learn more about why hand-cut dovetail joints are worth the effort!

What are hand cut dovetails?

Hand-cut dovetail joints are wooden joints that have been cut using a saw, chisel and mallet. The angled cuts have interlocking ‘fingers’ that fit together. When the pieces are connected, it forms an incredibly strong joint that can withstand the test of time with minimal wear and tear. Many woodworkers prefer hand-cut dovetail joints for aesthetic reasons, as their unique angles create a beautiful pattern. The angles for traditional hand-cut dovetail joints are usually 1:8 or 1:6, meaning that the sides of each dovetail will be 8 or 6 times as long as the thickness of the wood.

The benefits of hand cut dove tails

Hand-cut dovetail joints are incredibly strong and reliable. When put together correctly, they form a joint that is virtually indestructible. This means that they are perfect for the construction of furniture and cabinets, as they offer superior support and strength that will not deteriorate over time, even with continued use. Hand-cut dovetail joints are also very attractive. The angled cuts create a distinctive pattern that can enhance the look of furniture and cabinetry. Hand-cut dovetails are often used in the construction of fine furniture and can help to increase the value of the piece.

The process of creating hand cut dove tails

Creating hand-cut dovetail joints is not a simple task. It requires a high level of skill, precision, and knowledge. Each piece must be precisely measured and cut so that the fingers of the dovetail joint fit together perfectly. The first step is to mark the wood according to the measurements of the dovetail joint. This is where precision is key, as any mistake in the measurements can completely spoil the joint. The next step is to cut the angled sides of the dovetail joint. This is done with a saw, chisel, and mallet. Once the fingers of the joint have been cut, the pieces of wood can be pieced together and sanded down to form a seamless joint.

Why hand cut dove tails are worth the effort

Creating hand-cut dovetail joints requires a high level of skill and dedication. While it may take longer to complete, the results are worth the investment of time and energy. Hand-cut dovetail joints are incredibly strong, reliable, and attractive, making them well worth the effort. They offer superior support and strength, making them ideal for furniture and cabinetry. Their distinctive angled pattern can add aesthetic value to furniture, not to mention the fact that it will increase the piece’s overall value. Hand-cut dovetail joints are also very durable and can withstand heavy-duty use without losing their integrity. In conclusion, hand-cut dovetail joints are worth the effort. They are incredibly strong, reliable, and attractive, which makes them perfect for the construction of furniture and cabinets. While it may take a bit longer to create them, the results are well worth it. If you’re looking for a strong, reliable, and attractive joint, consider hand-cut dovetails!

Beautiful Pedestal desk with drawers.

Pedestal desk, the Beginning.

The need for a pedestal desk with drawers came from the COVID-19 pandemic. After working from home for a few months my customer asked me if I could build her a “real” desk. So, I sat down and drew up the plans (available here). She loved it and the build began.

Picking out the stock for the desk.

pulling out the needed lumber for the pedestal desk.

The first step was digging through the lumber pile and pulling out the cherry and poplar needed for the build. I started with 85 board feet of rough sawn cherry and 50 board feet of poplar to use for the drawers and other internal parts.

Making the Legs.

The material for the legs was the first job. I cut strips and laminated them together so I could mill the legs down to a 2×2 size. Then for looks I added an angle to the bottoms of each leg. Then I cut the groves for the panels to fit into each leg.

Cutting the rails and stiles.

After the legs were complete, the rails and stiles for the sides and back of the pedestals were cut to size. I then cut a 1/4″ wide by 1/2″ deep grove for the floating panels to sit.

The floating panels.

The floating panels were made by taking thick stock and resawing it into thinner parts. This does two things for me. First it allows the material to go farther. Second it gives the panels a mirrored look when glued together. This will make the Pedestal desk different from others.

Time to assemble the pedestal panels

I assembled the side and back panels for the pedestals next. The floating panels are slide into the groves that were cut in the rails and stiles. These panels are allowed to float so they can expand and contract with changes in humidity.

Desk drawer slides and the internals.

Installing drawer slides and the internals in the pedestal desk

Once the panels were dry, it was time to add the legs. At this point the pedestal desk was showing its beauty. The internal structure and the drawer slides were added to finish of this step of the process.

Drawers and a top!

My next job was making the drawer boxes and the top. The boxes were made out of poplar with cherry fronts installed. The top is 1 1/4 thick and is 72 inches long and 30 inches wide. This thing is heavy!

Finishing the Pedestal desk with drawers.

Once the hard work was completed, the desk was finished with General Finishes water based dye stain. It is top coated with a satin water based poly to give it just a little shine.

The Queenanne end table project.

Since I made the Queenanne sofa table I needed two end tables to match it. Like the sofa table they are made from air dried rough sawn cherry lumber and finished with General Finishes water based dye stain and Old world garnet shellac mixed in a one pound cut so I could layer it to achieve the tone I was looking for.

To get started I made the leg blanks out of 4/4 rough sawn cherry lumber from a local mill. Each leg is made up from 4 boards glued up to give me the 3 inch thickness I needed. Then I trace my template onto the leg blanks twice. They are then cut out on the band saw. Each leg requires four long cuts to make the shape.

Cut along one part of the pattern then tape it back on to the blank. You can see the tape in the picture to the right. This is done because you will cut your pattern off the second side and you need to add it back to the blank. Your cuts do not need to be perfect because you will be shaping with files and rasps in the next step.

After cutting your pattern four times per leg you will end up with something like the picture to the left. A rough Cabriole leg. This was cut on a 9 inch under powered bandsaw so it is very rough. But I didn’t worry about that because the fun part comes next. Shaping them so they all look alike.

Once you get the legs cut you can start the fun time of shaping them with files and rasps. Start out by marking layout lines to so you know where to stop removing excess material and start with the rasps. On these legs I marked a little over 1/4 inch from each corner. The amount removed is up to you and your design.

I then started with a spokeshave to remove the most of the material slow and easy until I hit my layout lines. When I reached a curved section I use my Narex chisels to cut back to the line. I stop now and then to be sure that I am heading in the right way with my design so I do not go to far or maybe I need to remove more to get the desired shape.

Once I get back to my lines I grab my Narex rasps and start rounding over the edges until I get a shape I like. Go slow and easy so you don’t make any area to narrow for the look of the legs. Once you get the basic shape with the rasps the switch to a fine file to refine your curves. You might even want to get some needle files for the tight spots.

Work with one leg until it is exactly how you want it to look. Then you have a template you can compare the other three to as you repeat the process on them one by one. There is no set standard pattern for these. You can make them look how you want. You can carve them or make them as round as you want, It is all up to you.