Are Hand Cut DoveTails Worth The Effort?

Introduction

Dovetail joints have been used for centuries to join pieces of wood together. Their popularity is due to their strength and durability. They are also very attractive, which is why they are often used in fine furniture.

There are two ways to cut dovetail joints – by hand or by machine. Many woodworkers believe that hand-cut dovetail joints are superior to those cut by machine. While they may take longer to create, the results are worth the effort.

Keep reading to learn more about why hand-cut dovetail joints are worth the effort!

What are hand cut dovetails?

 Hand-cut dovetail joints are wooden joints that have been cut using a saw, chisel and mallet. The angled cuts have interlocking ‘fingers’ that fit together. When the pieces are connected, it forms an incredibly strong joint that can withstand the test of time with minimal wear and tear. Many woodworkers prefer hand-cut dovetail joints for aesthetic reasons, as their unique angles create a beautiful pattern. The angles for traditional hand-cut dovetail joints are usually 1:8 or 1:6, meaning that the sides of each dovetail will be 8 or 6 times as long as the thickness of the wood.

The benefits of hand cut dove tails

 Hand-cut dovetail joints are incredibly strong and reliable. When put together correctly, they form a joint that is virtually indestructible. This means that they are perfect for the construction of furniture and cabinets, as they offer superior support and strength that will not deteriorate over time, even with continued use. Hand-cut dovetail joints are also very attractive. The angled cuts create a distinctive pattern that can enhance the look of furniture and cabinetry. Hand-cut dovetails are often used in the construction of fine furniture and can help to increase the value of the piece.

The process of creating hand cut dove tails

 Creating hand-cut dovetail joints is not a simple task. It requires a high level of skill, precision, and knowledge. Each piece must be precisely measured and cut so that the fingers of the dovetail joint fit together perfectly. The first step is to mark the wood according to the measurements of the dovetail joint. This is where precision is key, as any mistake in the measurements can completely spoil the joint. The next step is to cut the angled sides of the dovetail joint. This is done with a saw, chisel, and mallet. Once the fingers of the joint have been cut, the pieces of wood can be pieced together and sanded down to form a seamless joint.

Why hand cut dove tails are worth the effort

 Creating hand-cut dovetail joints requires a high level of skill and dedication. While it may take longer to complete, the results are worth the investment of time and energy. Hand-cut dovetail joints are incredibly strong, reliable, and attractive, making them well worth the effort. They offer superior support and strength, making them ideal for furniture and cabinetry. Their distinctive angled pattern can add aesthetic value to furniture, not to mention the fact that it will increase the piece’s overall value. Hand-cut dovetail joints are also very durable and can withstand heavy-duty use without losing their integrity. In conclusion, hand-cut dovetail joints are worth the effort. They are incredibly strong, reliable, and attractive, which makes them perfect for the construction of furniture and cabinets. While it may take a bit longer to create them, the results are well worth it. If you’re looking for a strong, reliable, and attractive joint, consider hand-cut dovetails!

The Building of My Shaker Workbench

My Shaker style workbench. After working for many years on sawhorses and makeshift tables I decided it was time to build a bench that fits my style of work. One that allowed good work holding and was suited for power tool use but was solid enough for hand tools use when needed. Plans for the bench are available here

The Shaker Workbench
The Shaker style workbench

Time to get started.

workbench parts

To get this build started I milled up enough cherry stock to make the legs and upper and lower rails. The legs are 2 in. x 2 in. and 33 inches tall. The upper rails are 2 inch x 3 inch while the lowers are 2 inch x 4 inch. The front and rear rails are 56 inches long and the side rails are 20 inches long.

Rear and end panels.

end panel

I also made the center supports for the front, back and end panels at the same time. While those were drying, I used my bandsaw to resaw some 1 inch thick cherry stock, and this allowed me to book matched the panels. The rear and side rails along with the legs received groves to accept the floating panels.

Starting assembly.

rear and side

I used the Festool Domino for joinery but traditional mortise and tenon is another option. I assembled the rear panel and end panels and let them dry. The next morning, I assembled the two side panels and the rear panel. Now its time for the front assembly.

The front assembly.

Front assembly

I built the front assembly and the two center supports. The two center supports give me places for the drawer slides. Another result from this is that they transfer any forces from the top directly to the floor. This design has 12 points to transfer any forces from the top to the floor making it very solid.

Interior assembly.

Drawer assembly

The next step was to install 7 pair of drawer slides and build drawer boxes to fit. The plans have 4 shallow drawers (two in each cabinet) but I decided that I was going to use two one the left and one on the right. The extra drawer on the right can be added at a later time if I need it..

Let’s build the doors.

shaker door

Now I am so close to complete. Time for the doors. These are standard floating panel doors. The panels are book matched and are set in grooves cut in the rails and stiles. I must say they look great. I added mission style hardware to finish off the main assembly of the bench.

At last the top!

The last thing to build was the top. I used white oak for my top. I made the top by laminating 28 strips of oak to reach my desired dimension. My final dimensions for the top are 28×72 and 2.75 thick. I finished the bench with three coats of a wipe on poly. The top has two coats, just enough to keep glue from soaking into the top while I am doing a build.